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AMDuser
12-26-2005, 06:09 PM
Hello All,
I am building myself a new computer and wanted to know if I have the right components down. I already have the hard drive. The one thing that I worry about is the micro atx MB in the ATX case, can I do this? Here is what I'm getting:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1273332&sku=ULT31841

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1185221&sku=TC3J-4022

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1696308&sku=L12-1070

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1209390&sku=M450-2018

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=586829&sku=ULT30215 2 of those sticks

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1035206&sku=CP2-A64-3700%20C

Does this all look compatible? I gotta get a keyboard, wireless adapter, and a portable DVD player from these guys too, but those are to come later.

Thanks everyone!

bear
12-26-2005, 07:51 PM
Why would you go with a micro ATX board? Apart from the cost, there is no real benefit I can see.

It will fit that case, and all of the above components seem compatible.
Speaking of the case, at that price, it's probably going to be kind of noisy and hard to mount drives.

AMDuser
12-26-2005, 11:17 PM
I would go with the micro ATX MB because it has a lifetime warranty when you register it, and it has integrated audio and video, just like I need. And it has a rebate going on right now.

Why would the drives be difficult to mount?

bear
12-27-2005, 06:35 AM
If you look at the case, it has racks to mount the drives, and no rails or drive chassis mounts. This means that to install a drive, you'll need to remove both side panels of the case to access the screw holes on a drive that you're mounting (each drive typically has 4 screw holes, 2 on each long side).

Just a pain, that's all.

You may come to regret the onboard video, since some cheaper mobos don't allow for disabling it if you decide to upgrade to an addon card later on. If you're not planning on gaming or eventually using dual (or more) monitors later on, it probably won't matter to you, however.

wera
12-27-2005, 08:11 AM
I really hope you arent doing any gaming in this if you are the psu has to go and teh intergated has to go.

AMDuser
12-27-2005, 12:46 PM
Nope no gaming, and I don't plan on getting dual monitors. I'm thinking about changing the case to this though:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1289171&Tab=11&NoMapp=0

What do you guys think? I would say that a 450 watt PSU would do, wouldn't it?

bear
12-27-2005, 01:05 PM
A 450 watt will power lots of drives and addons, so you should be fine with that. For me, I am very sensitive to noise from a computer, so I went with a more expensive case, the Sonata II from Antec. Quiet PSU and 120mm case fans keep it really quiet.
Yours is a bit "prettier" than mine, but to each his own, eh? ;)

AMDuser
12-27-2005, 02:06 PM
Correct!! And I on the other hand, don't mind noise for my PC at all, as I usually just "tune it out". So everything is alright with me there.

Just got a hisense 20" LCD TV for Christmas!!! It can and will be used as a monitor. I'm very excited to see what it will look like. I was a little un-impressed with the picture quality on the LCD. Shouldn't LCD be really, really sharp. My old magnavox is almost clearer than the hisense.

bear
12-27-2005, 03:57 PM
LCD can be sharp, if used at the native resolution, and you have a good graphics card driving it. If you were watching TV on it, maybe the signal was NTSC and the LCD was set to display digital at a different resolution?
Hard to say, really.

wera
12-27-2005, 05:11 PM
A psu in a premade case is not very good they tend to short and case a lot of problems /crashes/video card problems/shorting/littreley frying the motherboard may i suggest a fortan source or sparkle power supply?